Firemonkeyphoto

Some notes on Kenya and Tanzania0
neil posted in Travel, Neil, Tanzania on March 31st, 2007

I’m back from East Africa now and writing up my travel diaries to post here. These are some notes that would be useful to understand my diary and experience.

Mzungu: Got white skin? Go to the Swahili countries and you are a mzungu. What this means is ultimately dependent on who you are talking to. It can mean anything from “I am a giant stack of money, charge what you like” to “I’m a bit different, teach me a handshake and some Swahili”. The direct translation has multiple meanings from “one who wanders” to “Tiresome”. There is no hiding your Mzunguishness, deal with it.

Africa time: Short hand for the special time zone that allows a minute to become five and half an hour to become three. Another constant of our trip. We had to remind people that when we set a time we did’nt mean Africa time. There is also Africa distance where around the corner is 5km of hiking. You get used to it, most services do seem to run on Africa time. This includes ferries and service at restaurants.

Swahili countries: Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda

Us: On this trip, us and we refers to Sarah, George, Kathryn and myself. Sarah and Kathryn are two medics just finished 3 months in a Kenyan hospital. George is a software engineer of the larger variety.

Hakuna Matata: Means “No problems” Go to the Swahili countries without hearing it, I bet you can’t. The front of the bus is on fire, your plane has left without you, you’ve just asked to see a tiger in Africa, expect to hear “Hakuna matata”. The tone of voice determines whether this means “RUN!!!!” or “everything is fine”

Fly catchers & touts: The people who believe Mzungu are a giant stack of easily available money. Just say a polite and firm no, several times. They will follow you, they will touch you, this is normal. Don’t change money or book a safari through them, thats incredibly stupid. Switch on when they are around and don’t get agressive. Don’t let them ruin your impression of a friendly and generous people.
Swahili: Technically this should be Kiswahili (the language of the Swahili people) but for an international audience, Swahili in reference to a language makes more sense.

The DVI out of my graphics card is broken at the moment, meaning all colours are “special”. I will colour correct my pictures once this is fixed. Enjoy the blogs.

Photos are up here and will be contextualized as I write.

The saga begins2
neil posted in Travel, Neil, Tanzania on March 28th, 2007

Everything had been going smoothly until the stewardess at the gate tossed our boarding cards in the bin. George and I were being moved. The airbus we had so carefully chosen our seats on (for maximum legroom and minimum airsickness) had been replaced with a 747. We were also being upgraded to “Premium Economy class”. We asked the stewardess if this was good. She looked doubtful.

Nine hours with premium legroom and economy electronics ensued. My chair featured a broken headphone jack and over enthusiastic call button. A double helping of Casino Royale with no sound.

Immigration was the most efficient I have yet experienced taking all of five minutes. Once out in the airport concourse, we could have been in Croydon on a sticky summer evening.

Next morning, re-united with Sarah and Kathryn, we met our overland group. A mixed bag of Aussies and Kiwis spiced with two giggly Danes, an Irishman and his English Girlfriend. Place in a converted mercedes truck for three days, bake at over 30C, stir daily and shake well over potholes. A recipe for good times.

Taking off through the deserted streets of Catholic Nairobi on sundy morning, we could have been in Vegas or somewhere in Florida. Dual carriageway, English signs and palm trees. It is when we turned south for the Tanzanian border that it hits us. The tarmac ends, the truck rattles and rolls and camels flee from our noisy path.

We’re not in Vegas any more Dorothy…

Jambo from Stone Town0
neil posted in Travel, Neil, Tanzania on March 27th, 2007

Just arrived at the Jambo hotel in Stone Town on sunny, sticky and hot Zanzibar. George, Kathryn, Sarah and I are fresh off a daladala from three days of sun, sand and relaxation in Paje on the east coast. Many blog enteries will happen once we’re back in the UK, my diary is filling up!

For now though, I leave you with news that all are fine. We’ve had a cracking safari so far, seen, done and learned a lot. For example it is possible to cram 34 souls (4 babies 1 dwarf) into a converted pickup and no, it is’nt comfortable! Efficient though!
Bye bye for now.

Checked in….1
neil posted in Travel, Neil, Tanzania on March 17th, 2007

Ready to go. Last minute toilet roll additions have taken place. Christine helped me over to Georges flat, where batteries are getting a last ditch top up. Kathryn and Sarah are sleeping somewhere on the Masai Mara. We’ll see them tomorrow night.

See you in a week (or a little more)

Kenya & Tanzania: Almost ready7
neil posted in Travel, Neil, Tanzania on March 15th, 2007

On saturday George and I will fly via London to Nairobi. There we will meet two medics, Kathryn and Sarah, who have been working in a small Kenyan hospital since January. We then hitch up with the Africa travel company safari from Nairobi to Zanzibar.

Out itinerary lives here:

http://www.africatravelco.net/dossier/ND10.pdf

Over the last three months I’ve been stabbed by nurses for rabies, yellow fever and a handful of other nasties. I’m now on anti-malarials. My 18-70mm lens has just come back from having its front element replaced. Tanzanian shillings are’nt available here, so dollars it is. Batteries are charged, t-shirts folded and I’m fairly sure I know where my toothbrush is too. Excited? Sure!

Edinburgh Womens Rugby Football Club vs Northumbria0
neil posted in Travel on March 15th, 2007

Edinburgh WRFC showed their form against Northumbria at Peffermill yesterday. They dominate the Scottish universities and don’t seem to mind taking on the English either. Northumbria had real trouble during Edinburgh attacks with only a few players seeming able to administer a full stop to Edinburgh’s runners.

Edinburgh took full advantage of this, particularly Anna Panayotopoulos who was devastating offensively and defensively (Northumbria remarked “We could score a try if we could just get past her”) and fast Fiona Marjorin. Northumbria was under constant pressure and seemed to rely on a few agressive tacklers. One of these players was Northumbria captain Kelly Wallace who, early in the first half, made a thumping tackle to knock an Edinburgh run into touch. The tackle injured her neck or shoulders, but she was able to coninue playing. Unfortunately she had to keep putting in tackles and was needed for scrums. With Edinburgh rampant, she had to remain in the thick of the action and got up slower after each hit. Some time in the second half she did’nt get up and an ambulance was called. The game halted and the referee administered first aid.

Twenty minutes remained after the stoppage but the outcome seemed already set in stone. Edinburgh went on to keep a clean 45-0 despite desperate moments within a stride of their try line.

Wow…..World Press Photo Awards 20070
neil posted in Photos, Neil, Links of the week on March 12th, 2007

The World Press Photo Awards for this year up here.

One of them made me stop, blink, and go wow…..

This one.

A settler woman struggles (alone in the frame) with an Israeli security officer (actually a stream of more than twenty five). Its worth spending some time going through the awards. There are some incredible photographs from difficult places and some real heartwarmers too.

The Ultimate (frisbee) Tournament0
neil posted in Photos, Neil, Sports on March 12th, 2007

Edinburgh took the 1st and 3rd spots as they hosted a sixteen team ultimate frisbee tournament. The final was between a well drilled Edinburgh “Ro Sham Bo 1″ and St Andrews “Flatball”.

A drubbing was handed out by Edinburgh although the match remained fun to watch until the somewhat anti-climatic final whistle. After the final whistle the teams praised each others performance while sat in a circle and played a short silly game.

The friendly attitude to play extends beyond this post-game tradition/rule to having deliberately no referees or officials and letting players resolve their disputes. This attitude probably helped during into wind play. The strong winds over Peffermill pinned play to one end of some pitches and prevented long or high passes. This gaurenteed a close game as teams change ends after each point. Despite the rain, wind and cold air the resting players formed a respectable crowd for other games. The Edinburgh supporters notably shouting nonsense advice such as “Thread the needle! Chain the Wildebeest!” to their teams. One player had his hair cut on the sidelines while watching a game, only to be attacked with the luminous war paint of the Edinburgh ladies team. Competitive play and chilled out immediately afterwards, a very different game.

On the volley0
neil posted in Photos, Neil on March 1st, 2007

Edinburgh University faced down Manchester in a tense duel that went down to the wire in the last game. A strong crowd supported Edinburgh. Manchester had a few disagreements with the referee and net judge but otherwise the match went cleanly down to the last few points. Edinburgh’s Canse spiked the ball past three men at the net to score the winning point.

Pictures in the gallery here.